Learning about extra virgin olive oil > Tasting an oil > Vocabulary

A thorough knowledge of the vocabulary of olive oil and an ability to recognize its merits (fruity, sweet or green, almond. Artichoke) and demerits (heated or burnt, rancid, sludge) is the primary duty of any taster and basic requirement of any consumer. In order to become familiar with the terminology of tasters a great deal of practice is necessary; patience is required to repeat the test several times to memorize carefully that sensation and give it the correct label. From vegetation water to grub over 30 descriptors are used for olive oils.

Merits and demerits of oils are determined by various factors such as:

• • Type of variety of olive cultivated (cultivar)

• • Geographic area of cultivation

• • Climactic conditions

• • Degree of ripeness of the olives

• • Harvesting technologies

• • Times and places of storage

• • Extraction technologies

• • Techniques of oil preservation

• • General hygiene and cleanliness

• • Time and temperature of scutching

• • Treatments to the plants and soil.

First of all we must distinguish between oils:

Sweet fruity and green fruity

The two large categories of oils, determined mainly by the type of cultivar, degree of ripeness of the olives and geographical area of cultivation.

A typical green fruity oil is that from Andria in Puglia, while a typical example of sweet fruity oil is that which comes from the Riviera dei Fiori in Liguria. Once this difference has been highlighted, we can study further the merits and demerits of the oils on the basis of the cause which has determined that particular flavour.

An important element of evaluation for an oil is its paste or rotundity; by “paste” we mean that sensation of consistency and fullness in the mouth – an oil with “good paste” is recognizable by shaking the bottle. An oil is defined round when from the beginning to the end of tasting its taste remains constant.

Flavour determined by type of cultivar

Bitter: taste characteristic of oil obtained from green olives or from olives which are turning in colour. It can be more or less pleasant, depending on the intensity.
Sour: sensation characteristic of some oils which, on tasting, produce a tactile reaction of astringency.
Sweet: pleasant taste in oil where attributes of bitterness, astringency or piquancy are not at the forefront, without the oil being sugary.
(Ligurian Riviera, Garda, Sardinia, Sicily, Bitonto)
Grass: flavour characteristic of some oils reminiscent of green newly-cut grass (Sicily, Sardinia, Garda)
Fruity: flavour which brings to mind the smell and taste of sound, fresh fruit, picked at the peak of ripeness.
Almond: this flavour may be noted in two ways: the typical flavour of fresh almonds, or that of dry, sound almonds which it is possible to mistake for incipient rancidness.
Lively: this is said of the smell of a fresh oil which has good lasting aromatic notes.
Artichoke: very pleasant taste of artichoke, often found in freshly produced oils.
Piquant: flavour usually linked with fruity and grassy oils.

Flavour determined by geographic cultivation area

Provenance: with this term tasters indicate a whole range of aromatic notes of oils which come from the same geographic area.

Flavour determined by climactic conditions

Frosted: oils obtained from frosted olives have a particular taste which is difficult to recognize by smell, but is more easily noticed through on tasting. A frosted oil is weak, only slightly viscous on the tongue, tending to a dry or woody taste.
Dry: dryness is noticeable in oils obtained from drupes which have suffered from drought; their dry consistency gives no fruitiness or freshness.

Flavour determined by degree of ripeness of olives

Astringent: an oil produced from olives which have not turned in colour is particularly rich in polyphenols, responsible for the sensation similar to biting an unripe fruit.

Flavour determined by harvesting technologies

Net: particular flavour of rubber tending to dry noticeable in oils which have been left on the harvesting nets for a long time.

Flavour determined by degree of ripeness, times and places of storage of olives

Winy, vinegary: flavour characteristic of some oils, reminiscent of wine or vinegar. It is due basically to the alcoholic fermentation of the sugars with consequent formation of acetic acid, ethyl acetate and ethanol in greater than normal quantities.
Musty – humid - flavour characteristic of oil obtained from fruits in which fungus and yeasts have developed in abundance as a consequence of been left piled up for several days in a damp place.
This recalls the sensation that one has on entering a damp place that has been shut up for a long time.
Heated: flavour characteristic of oil obtained from olives which have been heaped up and undergone an advanced degree of fermentation (lactic); often accompanied by mould and winy defects.

Flavour determined by extraction technologies

Vegetation water: flavour characteristic of oil due to bad decantation and prolonged contact with vegetation water.
Basket: flavour of oil obtained from olives pressed in polluted filtering baskets with the presence of fermented residues.
Metallic: flavour reminiscent of metal; characteristic of oil kept for a long time in contact with metallic surfaces in unsuitable conditions.

Flavour determined by preservation techniques

Dregs or sludge: flavour characteristic of oil left on decanted sludge.
Rancid: flavour characteristic and common to all oils and fats which have undergone a process of oxidation, due to extended contact with air, light and heat.

back to tasting an oil